The Bistro Review by The Latest

We were lucky enough to have Andrew Kay from The Latest, Brighton’s free magazine for locals and visitors, visit us for dinner… he says:

Classic French cuisine at the heart of Brighton at the New Steine Bistro

Britain laboured for many years under the impression that the only food worth eating was French, and in many ways it was. The austerity of the war and post war years had debased our own food to shocking levels and was not helped by the advent of Asian cooking.

Then boom, the turn of the millennium kick started a revival of English cooking – all good you might say and who would not agree – but, and it’s a big but, what happened to that amazing French cuisine that we so loved?

I am sure that I am not alone in missing those classic French dishes of my youth, the bistro food that sparked my passion for cooking and great cuisine. The ideas and ideals that came form the classic French kitchen before the advent of what the great AA Gill called Jaberwocky food, that blurring of lines and dumbing down of real kitchen practice.

At the New Steine Bistro owner Hervé Guyat and chef Roman Martiné
are passionate about the food of their home country and their childhood.
Roman trained in the south of France and brings classic skills to their small
but perfectly formed menu with dishes that bring a smile to my face. It’s
not a huge menu but one that he is confident that he can deliver time after
time and everything is made in the kitchen freshly each day. In a world
where so many chain restaurants are buying in dishes or being supplied
from central kitchens this is refreshingly good news.

Hervé is equally passionate about this and insists that the kitchen uses
only local fresh produce, sourcing fish, meats and vegetables from trusted
local suppliers – “We choose to support local independent businesses,
ones that uphold high standards and strong traditional values”.
This passion shows in the food, in the quality of ingredients and the
classic presentation, there’s nothing “trendy” here, good food, classic
presentation and sensible portions too.

Tucked away in the New Steine Hotel it has become a well loved secret
with many loyal regulars, but it is well worth seeking out and not just for
the food. When it comes to value for money it is second to none. There is
an incredible set priced menu that is pretty unbeatable when it comes to
value and an a la carte offering that is packed with great dishes at sensible
prices. There are further deals too, special offers throughout the week that
have to be seen, and tasted, to be believed.

Here’s other passion is his all French wine list, filled with great wines
and affordable wines too and how refreshing to see half bottles listed. Why
more place don’t do halves is beyond me.

The bistro and hotel can also cater for private parties too. As well as the
ground floor restaurant there is a private dining room and courtyard that
can hold up to 30 guests and they are often home to birthdays,
anniversaries, business meetings and weddings, offering bespoke menus
to suit every budget.

The hotel is ideally located and perfect for locals who need to
accommodate visitors, or why not as a treat for dinner and an overnight
stay? We all need a break from time to time so why not on our doorstep.
The team offer a wide variety of offers including gift vouchers, and you
are sure to get a taste of the vrais Français.